Tips & Tricks: Flourish

Each copy of my Flourish pattern, both PDF and print versions, comes with a color chart, stitch map, and some photo tutorials to get you started. In this post, we’ll go into a bit more depth with some additional pointers to help you stitch up this pattern. Are you ready?!

Navigation

• You can stitch the various elements of this design in any order, but the following guidelines should help you keep things tidy and secure:
  1. For the striped leafs and large five-pointed flowers, I like to stitch the centers first and then the outline/border for better visibility as I work. This also allows shapes to grow outward with less chance of rubbing up against previously worked bits. You could take this approach to the whole piece.
  2. I like working the two elements just mentioned as well as the small rounded petal flowers before working the balloon shaped blooms in the background. This way, I know exactly where I need to add a compensating stitch or two to for tidy edges (without manipulating the feature shapes).
  3. Save the smallest elements such as the lazy daisies, french knots, woven roses, and back stitch stamens until last. Since everything else will be in place, this will provide lots of options for securing your threads on the back.

Stitch Anatomy

• When working satin stitch (like the balloon shaped petals in this pattern), you’ll get better results by stitching width-wise instead of length-wise. That’s because it’s the shorter route from edge to edge and shorter satin stitches are always more secure and tidy than long ones that tend to start getting floppy at app. 1”+ long.
  Fishbone centers are worked before the slanted satin border. Satin fill work (seen here in peach and pink is worked width wise for a secure result.
• Another tip for satin stitch is to start in the middle of your shape and work towards one end. Then, come back to the middle and work towards the other end. This will help keep your stitches aligned and shape even.
• Curious about stitching the “half moon” woven roses? The technique is actually the same as if you were working a full woven rose—the only difference is where your needle enters and exists the fabric between rounds. As in the photo below, you’ll enter just right of the center on the straight edge of the shape, weave in and out of your set-up stitches, and then enter when you get to the opposite side. Each round, you’ll enter and restart on that same right side and work clockwise (you could work counter-clockwise, but for the sake of trying to provide clear directions, I’ve chosen clockwise). Sometimes I like to add a compensating stitch at the outer edge to finesse the final shape (as seen in the final two steps below).
  “Half moon” woven rose (pictured top to bottom, then left to right).
• The small flowers with five rounded petals are worked in a radiating satin stitch. This photo illustrates how I like to fill these shapes in while maintaining clean angles from petal to petal:
  Setting up guidelines for a radiating satin stitch (pictured top to bottom, then left to right).
• Be sure to check out my video tutorials for the stitches used in this pattern here in the KHG Arts Stitch Library (I’ll be posting more video tutorials and will be sure to update this post with those links once live). My goal in these videos is not just to show you something, but to break a stitch down to help you understand how and why each functions the way it does.

And now for some final words of wisdom…

• Compensating stitches are your friend! When working an all-over design like this where multiple elements bump up against each other, adding in a stitch here and there to smooth out an edge or fill an unexpected gap is the name of the game.
• Looking for extra guidance for maintaining an even edge where the design cuts off in the middle? Try this trick: Thread your needle with some sewing thread (or one ply of cotton embroidery floss) in a contrasting color and take some large basting stitches across the line (extra long back or running stitches would work). Now you have a guideline to help you create a nice clean edge and, because basting stitches are large, they’re easy to pull out and trim away when you’re done.Basted guideline
• Always remember the “three foot rule.” We spend so much time up close and personal with our projects that we forget to step back where the view is much more forgiving! Odds are, your mistake learning opportunity isn’t visible from there and certainly won’t be to anyone else. Decide what level of perfection makes you happy and embrace it in your work.

You can grab your own copy of Flourish right here in my shop and download the FREE alternate colorway right here.

Happy Stitching! Don’t hesitate to let me know if you’ve got any questions and I’ll update this post with any other FAQs that might come up.